Basic sliding shark rig with a "hitch"

[Fish Jerk]

I thought I would post up another shark rig I've been using this year, so far with pretty good success.

The rig ends up being around 5ft in length when fully deployed and just over 3ft in it's casting configuration.
As with most rig's modifications could be made which will affect its total over all length. As depicted, there is an 18inch bite leader with an approximate 3ft sinker slide section.

The whole rig


Materials needed Include:
Hook - (My choice is the Eagle Claw L2004U 13/0 circle hook - strong, sharp and best of all $5.99 per 25 pack)
Rig/Leader material - (I am currently using 270lb 49 strand nylon coated cable)
Double barrel copper crimps - (Sized according to leader material)
Swivels - (I use 500lb stainless steel Krok swivels)
Sinker slide - (I am using the same Krok swivel with a clip)
Beads - (I am using 10mm beads here. I had to drill out the whole large enough to fit the leader and to allow sand not to plug up the hole.)
.051" stainless steel wire - (used to make the bait clip)
Shrink tubing - (sized to fit your selected crimps and leader material)

Creating the Rig
1) - Start by cutting a 5ft section of my rig/leader material. This length can be increased if you wish to increase the bite leader section, the sinker slide section or both.

2) - Crimp your selected hook to one end of the rig/leader material, making sure to use a 1" loop. This will be used to hang your bait on the bait clip. Slide a piece of shrink tubing down and over the crimp and shrink in place.



3) - Cut a section of the SS wire approximately 3/4" long.(This is variable, length is dependent on the length of your crimps.) you want make a 90 degree bend in the wire such that one side is the same length as your crimps.

4) - Slide a crimp down the rig/leader material until it is 18" above the hook eye, this will be your bite leader section and sinker stop/bait hook. Before crimping in place, insert the SS wire from step (3) into the crimp from the hook side and crimp in place. Finish by bending the wire into its final hook shape and covering the crimp with shrink tubing.




5) - Slide 1 or 2 beads down to the sinker stop crimp, followed by your sinker slide/snap swivel and 1 0r 2 additional beads.


6) - Slide on another piece of shrink tube, crimp and swivel and Crimp the swivel onto the end. This will complete your rig.


In order to improve casting distance and prevent the weight and bait from "windmilling", once the hook is baited, place the 1" loop you created to attach your hook and hang the hook and bait from the "bait hook" on the sinker stop crimp. This places the weight and bait very close together which prevents the dreaded "windmilling" and will allow you to use almost any length of bite leader between your sinker and the bait without causing casting issues.

[sasquatch]

Looks like a good rig. You certainly have gotten results.

[xjchad]

I've seen it in action 
Just tied a couple up on my lunch break to test out.

[Latimeria]

I love the rigs and still need to get a main page on the website with all of the cool rigs everyone's been perfecting.

[spideyjg]

Looks like an eel grass magnet with that hook. I get my knot catching pounds of the stuff.

Jim

[Fish Jerk]

Looks like an eel grass magnet with that hook. I get my knot catching pounds of the stuff.

Jim

In reality, it shouldn't catch anymore weed than your sputnik or hook already does. Once the line is set, it will be only a few inches above the sand right next to your sinker/sputnik.  In regards to anything being a "weed magnet", your fishing line is the primary culprit, not your knot, swivel etc.  Your knot, swivel etc primarily acts as a weed "concentrator" as the weed slides down your line due to the current or when you are reeling in. I have not seen a single rigging method that will stop weeds from catching on the line and eventually either fouling the rig or creating sufficient drag on the line to pull the sinker. 



The best suggestion I can make to mitigate this is this: When current is present and "small" amounts of grass etc are present, make sure your cast is angled approximately 15-30 degrees into the current. This will allow the current to push the weeds that accumulate on your line towards the rod instead of towards the rig. This may allow a slightly longer soak time before weed removal becomes necessary. If too much weed is present or the current is very strong, eventually the weed buildup on the line will cause a bow to form in the line funneling all the accumulated weed to a point somewhere between the rod and rig and will eventually cause enough drag to overcome the holding power of the sinker/sputnik

[Eric H]

Excellent write up Ron, looks good ....

[LONGCAST JOE]

How about just using a leg of the sputnik as the hitch to put the loop on? In the bottom pic with the LC as bait, if they weren't removed, the leg looks like it would be running in the same direction and angle as the hitch is when it's cast...

[Fish Jerk]

How about just using a leg of the sputnik as the hitch to put the loop on? In the bottom pic with the LC as bait, if they weren't removed, the leg looks like it would be running in the same direction and angle as the hitch is when it's cast...

This would work if your using a normal spider weight with bendable legs. Using a Sputnik, the force of the cast using a large bait for sharks, will in all likelihood pop that set of legs loose significantly increasing the likelihood that it won't dig into the sand.

[Latimeria]

How about just using a leg of the sputnik as the hitch to put the loop on? In the bottom pic with the LC as bait, if they weren't removed, the leg looks like it would be running in the same direction and angle as the hitch is when it's cast...

This would work if your using a normal spider weight with bendable legs. Using a Sputnik, the force of the cast using a large bait for sharks, will in all likelihood pop that set of legs loose significantly increasing the likelihood that it won't dig into the sand.

Excellent point.